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Is the Familiar Pub Becoming Unfamiliar?
Written by Masi Alessandro
Something is happening to the traditional British pub - it's fast becoming a thing of the past. When this generation raises their children and tells them fondly about the old days of the local family pub around which the neighbourhood grew and where their parents met, they'll probably have to show it them with photo instead of a visit. Say what you want about Britain, but one of the great traditions has always been the local pub.
Typically the local was a 'home away from home' which literally extended the household feeling outside your door into your neighbourhood. Yes, the prices were higher than to drink at home, but nothing beats the idea of friend's and their families all gathering together for a sporting event or a Sunday roast. It was usually run by a family who lived upstairs and came down to open and sometimes had a lock-in after it closed. All kinds of events were celebrated there and sometime when a regular had too much or started trouble, they would be escorted out but welcome back another day because all friends and families have a falling out or a bad moment once in a while and are forgiven.
Then the recession came... and we all know what happened; only the strongest profitable pubs lasted and it became a cutthroat game to stay in business. On average 50-60 pubs a week have (and are still) closed their doors to make way for the more impersonal 'formula' drinking establishments that have laminated menus, rented premises above and service by an often endless parade of students who come and go before they get a chance to know their customer. No more home cooked meals from local produce but from computer generated menus sourced nationally. People started to mutter uncomfortably under their breath that big business was taking over their locals- just like the big supermarket chains were already doing to their high street.
Then as competition started to heat up, pubs started hiring a person or company to be solely responsible for their kitchen, so they could concentrate more on the drinks side and perhaps save some money. This became known as franchising. It was a good idea for the franchisee because they could piggyback on the existing drinking crowd and eventually make enough profits to open their own restaurant or cafe. Then - guess what? - the pub has to search for a new franchisee as good as the last one, because they're not used to serving their own food! …and all this while the customer watches these events suspiciously.
It gets better... and far more confusing: now there are pubs that have a franchise (independent business) that runs the bar separately from a different one that runs the kitchen - and both pay rent to a third business interest - typically a tavern or leisure chain - who then must lease the premises from the actual landlord! This is happening with ever greater frequency in your neighbourhood, not just in business areas. The Hanover Pub on Queens Park road, for example, is just one of a growing group of local, business and even historical pubs seeking 'creative' ways of coping with a deep recession. The Hanover Pub, St. Georges Inn on Sudeley St and Temple bar on Western Road have Alexander Chalk at the helm of their kitchen producing traditional meals with the same painstaking care as in his previous restaurant Alexander's Gastronomy. There is the Golden Cannon on St. George's Road boasts Mr. Tek's Thai Restaurant run personally by Mr. Tek who actually will come out and meet the customers asking if all is okay. Filip Bartczac, the assistant manager, says this personal touch plus the variety of having more exotic pub food - while he doesn't recommend it for every bar - has pleased his existing customers as well as attracting new faces just by word of mouth.
In practice, though, one with any experience in the business will know too many chefs spoil the brew and internal disagreements would inevitably occur since none of the four parties are linked by partnership and therefore have only their interests at heart. Some would say that taking this kind of action where a pub is de-humanised enough to the point where you don't know who's in charge to thank for, complain to, or make suggestions about how the business is being run will only lead to disaster with the customer's wishes being lost in the shuffle.
In the example of the Hanover Pub, there are four interested parties who are looking to make money off you: the landlord, the lessee, the bar franchise and the food franchise - and even more amazingly you may be frequenting one of those pubs without knowing. Gone are the days where the name on the door was someone you knew who was responsible for everything. And these people would also point out how ironic it is that while all of this has been done to 'save' the pub, the lack of personal touch of the old ways is making it more common for people to look at the prices and decide to drink at home (These days in most off-licenses you can buy two bottles of decent Italian wine for a fiver and just invite your friends over).
Is this what Britain's world famous pub life style turned into?
Most people on the street, the 'locals', don't know.
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